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Slow fashion development : a model for sustainability.
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Electronic Theses, Projects, and Dissertations
From fast fashion to sustainable slow fashion.
Isabel Agatha Millward-Pena , California State University - San Bernardino Follow
Date of Award
Document type, degree name.
Master of Arts in English and Writing Studies
First Reader/Committee Chair
Martin Premoli
The objective of this thesis is to express a need for sustainability within the fast fashion industry, in the form of cultural movement that acts as alternative to the current means of production, consumption, and philosophies. Sustainability within current popular discourses is often human-centered and lacking authenticity, thus I aim to highlight an alternative that is opposite of that. In doing such, I bring to light the negative effects of the industry through a case study on the fast fashion company SHEIN, who claim to be making sustainable efforts. I analyzed SHEIN’s 2021 Sustainability and Social Impact Report (SSIR), focusing on the disparities between SHEIN’s rhetoric and the actual sustainable efforts being made, to determine their level of authenticity to sustainability. I uncover negative environmental impacts such as high levels of water consumption, ecosystem disruptions, and disposability that result from the materials used, which lead me to believe SHEIN lacks authenticity to their claims at sustainability. To counter these rapidly increasing effects, I highlight a new philosophy of fashion, one that carries sustainable values and practices. Invented by Kate Fletcher, slow fashion, is the cultural movement needed because it distances itself from the need to feed rising consumer consumption rates, moves away from quickly fading fashion trends, and reduces the speed of production. I highlight slow fashion as a cultural movement because the required sustainable change needed must occur on a cultural level, if it is to create impactful changes. I finalize with possible steps that consumers and companies can take, in order to adopt slow fashion as a new mode of fashion.
Key Words: Sustainability, fast fashion, slow fashion, consumer consumption, psychology of consumption, water consumption, ecosystem disruption, philosophy of fashion, rhetoric, and disposability.
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Millward-Pena, Isabel Agatha, "FROM FAST FASHION TO SUSTAINABLE SLOW FASHION" (2022). Electronic Theses, Projects, and Dissertations . 1453. https://scholarworks.lib.csusb.edu/etd/1453
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The millennial slow fashion consumer’s perception, attitude and awareness regarding slow fashion consumption in South Africa
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- Fashion Me Green / By Nathalie Aurora Lister Dissertation--M.A.; American University of Paris, 2011.
- Green style: Discourses of sustainability among fashion industry professionals / By Melissa J. Begey Dissertation--M.A.; California State University, Long Beach, 2016.
- Human Right Violations in the Fashion Industry: A Comparative Country Analysis / By Sattarin, Jaleh Jennifer Dissertation--M.A.; American University of Paris, 2013.
- Rethinking fast: Understanding Fast Fashion and Slow Fashion Consumers / By Ng, TM Dissertation--Ph.D.; University of Tasmania, 2019.
- The global environmental injustice of fast fashion Bick, Rachel ; Halsey, Erika ; Ekenga, Christine C; England: BioMed Central Ltd Environmental Health, 2018, Vol.17 (1), p.92-92, Article 1 We discuss the role of industry, policymakers, consumers, and scientists in promoting sustainable production and ethical consumption in an equitable manner.
- Life cycle assessment of clothing libraries: can collaborative consumption reduce the environmental impact of fast fashion? Zamani, Bahareh ; Sandin, Gustav ; Peters, Greg M.; Elsevier Ltd Journal of cleaner production, 2017, Vol.162, p.1368-1375 Fast fashion is a clothing supply chain model that is intended to respond quickly to the latest fashion trends by frequently updating the clothing products available in stores. The shift towards fast fashion leads to shorter practical service lives for garments. Collaborative consumption is an alternative way of doing business to the conventional model of ownership-based consumption, and one that can potentially reduce the environmental impacts of fashion by prolonging the practical service life of clothes. In this study, we used life cycle assessment to explore the environmental performance of clothing libraries, as one of the possible ways in which collaborative consumption can be implemented, and compared the advantages and disadvantages in relation to conventional business models.
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| , “It doesn’t have to be this way. As lawmakers, we can create incentives for the apparel industry and consumers to reduce natural resource consumption and engage in reusing, repairing, rewearing, and recycling textiles. I am eager to get to work and thankful for the widespread support of sustainable style advocates, industry leaders, and, of course, my fellow Members of Congress who are joining me in this new effort to rein in fast fashion pollution. This is just the beginning!” “High-quality American-made clothing isn’t just inherently fashionable – it’s a core part of building wealth in the middle class. When I have to replace work boots every few months, rather than a quality pair that can last for years, my family loses out. The purest form of environmentalism is to use less and be a good steward of your stuff – rather than buying new clothing that’s designed to be disposable,” “These items can contain toxic chemicals and PFAS, and they’re predominantly made from synthetic fabrics that shed microplastics, unlike natural fibers. Instead of putting our kids in pajamas with chemical flame retardants, we should be looking to naturally resistant alternatives like wool. I look forward to working with the Slow Fashion Caucus to bring manufacturing jobs home and support a cultural shift toward durable, safe clothing for working families.” “Los Angeles is home to the dreamers, innovators, and risk-takers of the fashion world, and as such, we have long been leaders in setting sustainable fashion trends to promote fair labor practices and reduce fashion’s climate footprint,” said “California has been a pioneer in tackling this issue at the state level, which is why I am thrilled to see the effort to promote sustainable fashion coming to the Halls of Congress. I am proud to be a founding member of the Slow Fashion Caucus and look forward to working alongside my colleagues to advance policies that support an ethical, sustainable, and climate-smart future.” “For too long, greedy fashion corporations have prioritized profits over their workers and protecting our environment. I’m joining the Slow Fashion Caucus because I believe that Congress has a special responsibility to be stewards of our environment and workers’ rights “As a passionate environmentalist, I’m committed to promoting sustainability across all industries, including the fashion industry. The fashion industry is making more clothing than can be worn and, as a result, there are millions of unworn garments that end up in landfills each year. Further, we must ensure corporations abide by international labor laws and treat their workers with dignity and respect. Workers all over the world deserve to feel empowered and valued. I’m looking forward to working with my colleagues and stakeholders in the Slow Fashion Caucus to address the harms of fast fashion.” The press conference was streamed live across Pingree’s social media accounts. Founding members of the Congressional Slow Fashion Caucus include: Representatives Chellie Pingree (D-Maine, Chair), Marie Gluesenkamp Perez (D-Wash.), Grace Meng (D-N.Y.), Julia Brownley (D-Calif.), Sydney Kamlager-Dove (D-Calif.), Jerrold Nadler (D-N.Y.), Jan Schakowsky (D-Ill.), Earl Blumenauer (D-Ore.), Kathy Castor (D-Fla.), Jared Huffman (D-Calif.), and Jill Tokuda (D-Hawaii). The Slow Fashion Caucus has already garnered widespread support, including from American Circular Textiles, the Garment Worker Center, Al Gore’s Climate Reality Project, Patagonia, ThredUp, fashion designer and slow fashion influencer Kelly Dempsey, and more. “Consumers demand — and companies should deliver — products that are more durable, multifunctional and, crucially, socially and environmentally responsible,” “Government has a role, too. We need a national revolution around quality, backed by policies and legislation that prioritize the most sustainable raw materials and best manufacturing practices. That’s why my colleagues and I are excited about the launch of this caucus and its goals to strengthen public awareness and encourage textile sustainability.” “There is a dire need for public policy to help us accelerate the transition to a more sustainable future, just like it has for energy and vehicles. The launch of the Slow Fashion Caucus gives us a powerful new platform to forge ahead,” “We look forward to working with like-minded organizations and policymakers to advance the fashion policy agenda, change incentive structures to benefit our shared planet and resources, and ultimately create a more sustainable fashion future for generations to come.” “The Garment Worker Center (GWC) applauds Congresswoman Pingree’s effort to establish a Slow Fashion Caucus to push forward policies that move the needle towards a responsible and ethical fashion industry. GWC organizes alongside US garment workers, primarily in California, the largest garment production hub in the United States, to transform the garment industry, eliminate sweatshop labor, and hold brands accountable for the social and environmental issues they create. We collaborate with multi-stakeholder industry leaders to address egregious issues within the fashion industry through community organizing and state and federal legislation,” “The slow fashion movement must include the needs of sustainable, ethical brands and American garment workers, of which there are 100,000 today. It’s due time for US policy that invests in workers, responsible business, and combats fast fashion. Fast fashion relies on cheap manufacturing to produce trendy, inexpensive, short lived garments that end up in landfills. Cheap manufacturing, more often than not, goes hand in hand with labor rights violations and wage theft. We look forward to engaging with the Slow Fashion Caucus on pivotal initiatives involving ethical labor, domestic manufacturing, sustainability, and environmental responsibility.” to read more statements of support.
The rise of so-called “fast fashion” has become an urgent environmental problem. Today, nearly two-thirds of all the fibers we wear and use are made from fossil fuel products. The fashion industry is now responsible for more carbon emissions than all international flights and maritime shipping combined. Fast fashion relies on cheap manufacturing, frequent consumption, and short-lived garment use. This constant cycle of production and disposal is taking a huge toll on our environment. Over the last two decades, in line with the ascension of fast fashion, the rate of textile waste has increased tremendously. In 2018, the Environmental Protection Agency estimated 17 million tons of textiles were generated in the U.S. Textile waste is now one of the fastest growing waste streams in the U.S., but only 15% of clothing in the U.S. is recycled or reused, with the rest either incinerated or sent to landfills for disposal. In addition, over the past several decades, hundreds of thousands of fiber and textile jobs that once sustained communities across America have shifted overseas, harming American farmers and communities in the process. Pingree founded the Congressional Slow Fashion Caucus to create climate-smart policies to reduce, repair, rewear, and recycle textiles. While the apparel industry is responsible for a significant amount of greenhouse gas emissions, they also have the power to be part of the solution, and some are starting to take action. Public policy, such as incentives for secondhand purchases or participation in rental models, can make it easier for companies and consumers to do the right thing for the environment. A circular economy prevents products such as textiles from becoming waste and keeps materials in circulation by designing products that can be reused, repaired, and recycled. Existing systems and infrastructure for the collection, reuse, and recycling of used textiles are not well established and do not support consistent, convenient, or widespread collection of the quantity and quality of textiles needed to retain value and support economical reuse and recycling. Additional education is needed on the negative impacts of fast fashion and opportunities to support a circular economy for textiles. . As global trends have impacted the economics of producing textiles and apparel outside the US, and as consumer demand for more sustainably produced products has risen, there is a need to bring more textile and apparel production stages back to the US. Reducing the use of virgin materials and using more plant and animal-based fibers, such as cotton, flax, hemp, wool, and alpaca, may decrease environmental impacts. President Biden is building a whole-of-government approach to reach the goal of reducing U.S. greenhouse gas emission by 50–52 percent from 2005 levels by 2030 and limiting global warming to 1.5 degrees Celsius. Existing government efforts can be further leveraged to curb fast fashion and promote sustainability. , Pingree and Rosa DeLauro (D-Conn.), Ranking Member of the House Appropriations Committee, called on the U.S. Government Accountability Office (GAO) Comptroller General Gene Dodaro to outline ways the fashion industry and Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) can better manage discarded clothing and textile waste. The Democratic congresswomen focused on the rise of the so-called “fast fashion” industry as a primary driver of textile waste pollution. Last year, Pingree also about the growing threat of the fast fashion industry. ### | Posted in Press Releases | Posted in Press Releases | Posted in Press Releases | Posted in Press Releases |
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Millward-Pena, Isabel Agatha, "FROM FAST FASHION TO SUSTAINABLE SLOW FASHION" (2022). Electronic Theses, Projects, and Dissertations. 1453. https://scholarworks.lib.csusb.edu/etd/1453. This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Ofice of Graduate Studies at CSUSB ScholarWorks.
Furthermore, sustainable fashion can cover many terms and concepts such as slow fashion itself, green fashion, ethical fashion, and some brands use them separately and take advantage of this fact ...
2.2.5 Social sustainability in the fashion industry 20 2.2.6 Environmental sustainability in the fashion industry 22 2.2.7 Sustainability of UK Fashion Brands 24 2.2.8 Sustainability of UK Consumers 27 2.2.9 Summary of Sustainability in the fashion industry 27 2.3 Fashion consumption 28 2.3.1 Fast fashion 28 2.3.2 Fast fashion brands 29
fashion business model is slow fashion. Slow fashion is an apparel business model that is based upon values and goals that incorporate awareness, responsibility, and forging relationships between creators and consumers (Fletcher, 2010). Recent trends have shown that independent fashion designers in Canada are using the slow fashion business ...
Slow fashion - an alternative business model to fast fashion. Its focuses are on the value of local resources, transparent production, and sustainable and sensorial products. The consumer should think of the garment as an investment and choose to repair it rather than to dispose of it (Clark,
iv STATEMENT OF CONTRIBUTIONS I am the sole author of all chapters, with the exception of chapter 2, of this dissertation. Chapter 2 is based on a co-authored manuscript with Dr. Olaf Weber.
The sustainability in fashion: a systematic literatur e review on slow. fashion. Lívia Juliana Silva Solino. Professor, Dept. of T extile and Fashion, Federal Institute of Education, Science and ...
The main research question of this dissertation is "What are the main strategic approaches and business models adopted when implementing slow/sustainable fashion businesses in Portugal?", presenting and analysing the key opportunities that can arise from this shift in the fashion industry.
The purpose of this study was to develop a slow fashion design model using the house of quality model (HOQ) to provide designers an opportunity to improve the overall sustainability of an apparel product. Slow fashion is based on the slow food movement that supports the consumption of food that is good, clean, and fair (Petrini, 2007).
Dissertation presented as partial requirement for the degree of Master of Information, Specialization in Marketing Intelligence ... 2 Slow Fashion is a movement based on the slow food movement that started in Italy in the 1980s, as a reaction to the increase of fast-food. Slow fashion focuses on the materials used to produce clothes and
conscious consumers and the growth of innovative practices of sustainable fashions and slow fashion business models. In order to proceed with the research, I conducted qualitative ... who has been kind enough to get my dissertation through within a short time and was understanding of my depression treatment. I also thank my supervisor, Olga ...
Millward-Pena, Isabel Agatha, "FROM FAST FASHION TO SUSTAINABLE SLOW FASHION" (2022). Electronic Theses, Projects, and Dissertations. 1453. https://scholarworks.lib.csusb.edu/etd/1453. The objective of this thesis is to express a need for sustainability within the fast fashion industry, in the form of cultural movement that acts as alternative ...
The present dissertation aims to study the slow fashion online community resorting to netnography. Deviating from previous academic research focused on slow fashion definition, the present research uncovers slow fashion's meaning to its advocates and common practices. Results demonstrate how slow fashion's adoption is consensually perceived ...
DOI. 10.31390/gradschool_dissertations.2053. The purpose of this study is to explore the application of a pre-existing apparel design process model and design framework to the development of a conceptual slow fashion apparel design process and framework. A content analysis of slow design and slow fashion literature identified 38 themes related ...
As a result, sustainable fashion as a part of a slow fashion movement is identifying fair working conditions as the main business model (Joergens 2006, 361)., where the fashion products are produced with environmentally friendly materials that are traceable for consumers explains Henninger (2015) (Panayiota & Oates 2016, 1).
Furthermore, motivations to embrace slow fashion principles included durability, exclusivity, and environmental concern. Consumers also expressed a future commitment to consume consciously and shop second-hand as a strategy for sustainable fashion. This dissertation highlights the complex relationship of factors impacting
The slow fashion consumers were more positively affected when they know about the responsible practices of the store: 91.5% of the slow fashion against 78.3% of the fast fashion consumers (Table 1 - question 4, ... Dissertation In Portuguese: Moda e sustentabilidade. Dissertação (Dissertação para obtenção do grau de Mestre em Gestão ...
The fashion industry is the second-most polluting industry in the world. 1-3 This is the main reason why it has to be transformed into a more sustainable one. Fashion sustainability is a complex issue 4 that covers three equivalently important aspects: environmental, social, and economic. 3-9 The environmental aspect considers the creation of ecological value and resource saving.
The participants recognised slow fashion as relevant in the country, and that VI | P a g e South African consumers have the influence to make a change to the local clothing industry, if they supported local producers of slow fashion, ethical and sustainable clothing, instead of overconsuming cheap, trend-inspired, imported fast fashion clothing.
Structure of the Dissertation The structure of this dissertation is presented in 6 chapters. Chapter 1 outlines the background of the study and provides an overview of chapters. Chapter 2 presents an up-to-date review of the literature, which considers the definition of fast fashion and literature related to Fast Fashion. This consists mainly of
Abstract. Fast fashion consists of garments made at cheap q uality, low price, mass. produced, machine made and are seen to end up in the landfills very soon. Slow. fashion in contrast is handmade ...
DSpace. Communities & Collections. Browse Mountain Scholar. Now downloading ...
Dissertation--M.A.; California State University, Long Beach, 2016. Human Right Violations in the Fashion Industry: A Comparative Country Analysis / By Sattarin, Jaleh Jennifer ... American University of Paris, 2013. Rethinking fast: Understanding Fast Fashion and Slow Fashion Consumers / By Ng, TM. Dissertation--Ph.D.; University of Tasmania ...
Congresswoman Chellie Pingree wants to find ways to make clothes that last longer and do less harm to the environment. Pingree says the rise of fast fashion is an urgent issue as it uses cheap ...
F or the first time ever, the United States government will have a caucus focused solely on fashion. Started by Maine Representative Chellie Pingree (D-M.E.) the Slow Fashion Caucus will focus on ...
A new "Slow Fashion Caucus," led by Rep. Chellie Pingree (D-Maine), hopes to raise awareness around the destructive impact of fast fashion.
"The slow fashion movement must include the needs of sustainable, ethical brands and American garment workers, of which there are 100,000 today. It's due time for US policy that invests in workers, responsible business, and combats fast fashion. Fast fashion relies on cheap manufacturing to produce trendy, inexpensive, short lived garments ...
Shares in H&M Hennes & Mauritz tumbled after the fast-fashion retailer made a slow start to its third quarter and warned it would be harder to hit a key profit target this year. Stockholm-listed H ...